-Dude, why the front?

-Won't it hinder my steering?

-What's the turn-around?

-What's the weight limit?

-Are CETMAracks compatible with my bike?

-Are CETMAracks compatible with quick-release axles and drop-bars?

-Do you do custom work?

-What's your background?

-What the hell is powder-coating? 

-Do CETMAracks rust?

-Your racks are available uncoated.  What does that mean?

-Shipping info.

-I don't want to pay with a credit card.  What are my alternatives?

-What's your return policy?

"Dude, why the front?"

Because the front of the bike is better suited for carrying weight than the back of the bike. Think about it.

 

1. The rear wheel is inherently weaker than the front wheel due to its asymmetrical build and offset hub.

2. The rear part of the frame is where almost all frames break. The thin chain stays and seat stays are notorious weak spots.

3. Carrying weight on a rear rack makes the entire bike feel unstable and top-heavy. Put a heavy box on a rear rack and try to ride down the street. The entire frame flexes, and the bike tries to lay down. Come to a stop and it gets downright scary. Transporting that box becomes a precarious balancing act.

4. Rear-loaded freight remains behind you while you ride, and you can't see if it's shifting or about to fall. It's easy to keep an eye on it when it's right in front of you.



Freight up front makes better sense because that's where your hands are, that's where the stronger wheel is, that's where the stronger part of the frame is, and it's where you can see it.

A front mounted rack with a low-center of gravity (very important) is the best way to carry freight on a bike.

...in my opinion.

 

"Won't it hinder my steering?"

I don't know. Ask these guys.


These are French newspaper couriers. The picture on the left was taken around 1930.
The shot on the right is from 1927. See any rear racks?

Carrying freight anywhere on the bike will affect steering.  As far as overall bike handling goes, though, any cargo carried in the back is better carried in the front, as low as possible, over the front wheel, and close to where your hands are.  Keep in mind the geometry of your bike and headtube angle, the rake of the fork, and your wheel size have great effect on handling cargo. 

1956, 1960 These four pictures are provided courtesy of Joel Metz, original keeper of Messengers.org.
Check out his current site HERE to see the full-size version of these pictures plus a billion other things that will
totally blow your mind into next week.


 

"What's the turnaround?"

Racks ship in 1-3 days.  Shipping takes 1-5 days depending on your location.
If you live on Mars, it will take 974213654148962120025 days to get there.

If you have special requests, tell me and I will try to accommodate you.
If you've already ordered a rack and want an ETA, don't hesitate to call or email or text or write a letter. 

 

"What's the weight limit?"

It's hard to say because I haven't broken one yet. I used my first CETMArack for daily messenger work in SF many years ago and could not break it-and I really tried!  I still have it and it's as good as new.  Sort of.

The general consensus is that steering gets a little weird around forty pounds.  I guess it depends on you and your bike.

HALFracks and Bracks are limited to about 30 pounds or so because they don't attach to the handlebars like "standard" CETMAracks.

"Are CETMAracks compatible with my bike?"

Probably, but...

Handlebar height
Measure the distance between the top of your front wheel and the mid-section of your handlebars near the stem.  If it's over 12 inches, let me know.  I can customize your rack for no extra charge, OR consider a HALFrack or Brack. 

Handlebar type
Some handlebars aren't compatible with CETMAracks handlebar brackets due to curvature near the stem.  As far as I know, On-One Mary handlebars won't work.  The distance between the "verticals" of the rack is 4 inches.  If your handlebar doesn't have at least 4 inches of flat area there, you may need to swap them, or consider a HALFrack or Brack.  Moustache bars work, but you'll need to bend the rack clamps a little.  It can be done:

Lawyer tabs
These are the annoying lips added to the dropouts of some front forks which are supposed to prevent the wheel from flying off if not bolted tight enough or whatever.  In some cases these tabs prevent the rack strut from laying flat against the fork dropout. If this is the case, you'll need to figure out a remedy with washers, a file or a grinder or your God.

Shocks
Shockingly, CETMAracks don't work with shocks.  WAHHH!!!

"Are CETMAracks compatible with quick-release axles and drop-bars?" 

Yes, CETMAracks are compatible with quick-release axles and drop-bars.
It is your responsibility to attach your rack safely.
If you have any questions or reservations about attaching your rack properly, take your bike to a bike shop and have them check it out for you.   While you're there, buy something!
 

"Do you do custom work?"

Yes.  Just ask.
 

"What's your background?"

October 1995--Solo Pacific Coast bike tour from Modesto,
CA, to San Francisco, to Los Angeles.

September/October 1997--Two-person bike tour from Anacortes, Washington to Fargo, North Dakota.

February 2001 to June 2005, and July to November 2006--Bike messenger in Chicago, Los Angeles, and San Francisco. I worked at Apex, Deadline, Exacta, Western Messenger, and Quake.  From May 2007 to December 2007 I worked at Pedalers Express in Eugene, Oregon. 

And a lot of riding in between. 

After ruining countless wheels (rear almost every time), fracturing good frames (rear triangle every time), and a nudging from Mr. Zo, I realized I'd had it wrong for so long and built my first front rack.

"What the hell is powder-coating?!"

Take it easy.  Powder-coating is a "dry-paint" process of coating metal, which uses electricity to bond a statically-charged powder to metal.  It's more durable than paint and less toxic,
because there aren't any toxic solvents involved.  The process is usually done in three steps. 
First, the metal is sand-blasted to remove oils and other crap.  Then it's "sprayed" with powder.  
Lastly, it goes into an oven where the powder is baked on.  Sometimes there's a clear-coat added for durability.  

"Do CETMAracks rust?"

Eventually, yes. All CETMAracks are coated to protect the metal, but like any coated metal surface, scratches to the protective layer will expose the steel to oxygen and bring on rust. All CETMAracks are available powder-coated or uncoated at your request. 
 

"Your racks are available uncoated.  What does that mean?"

It means they're uncoated, bare metal, dirty, not painted, sans protective finish, without covering, no clear-coat, varnish, wax, shellac, nothin'. 

Uncoated racks are given a once-over after welding and finishing, but there is some residual oil left on the surface. This oil inhibits rust.  If you're planning to paint your rack, give it a thorough cleaning with mineral spirits or something first. 

Understand that if you buy an uncoated rack, it will eventually rust unless you coat it with something.
 

Shipping info

All domestic racks are shipped via FedEx Ground or Home Service.  International shipments are made via USPS. 

I charge $50 for any shipment outside of the mighty United States of America. 

If you live outside the US and purchase a rack through this website,
I will email an invoice for this extra shipping fee.

"I don't want to pay with a credit card.  What are my alternatives?"

Send a check, money order, or well-concealed cash to:

1272 Willamette Street Apt. 202
Eugene, OR 97401

Tender all payments to CETMAracks.
 

"What's your return policy?"

If you are unsatisfied with your CETMArack for any reason, send it back in good condition (with all hardware included) and I will refund your money immediately.